Edwin Richardson says you should race over to visit as soon as you can
With the pandemic and lockdown, I decamped to my home – very close by – nation that has been living Covid free for the past seven months. And at your earliest opportunity I suggest you visit us – on the Isle of Man. If you don’t know already, it’s a small island in the Irish Sea, tucked in between Ireland and the British mainland.
The island, population 80,000 and about 40 miles long, offers plenty for a great getaway. It boasts amazing scenic beaches and countryside, local attractions, and fantastic journeys along mountain roads. Tourists leave nothing but good reviews, raving about the vast amount of scenery and greenery.
Meet the locals
But before I take you on a tour as a tourist, I want to introduce you to island life and the locals to better enjoy your visit.
In many ways we have it easy here. It’s beautiful and compact, but small island living has its own peculiarities. Perhaps the biggest is that everyone pretty much knows each other. On a sunny Saturday, I wake up to chirping birds ready to get out of the house and go exploring, right? But taking a trip downtown to do a bit of shopping guarantees meeting at least ten people I know. And locals love to gossip. We call it the ‘island mentality’ where nobody has anything better to do than talk about your business. As natives we avoid doing anything embarrassing, or else your name will spread around the island before the next day dawns.
We also have the ‘Manx’ speech and accent. Though born in South America, I’ve absorbed both after over two decades here. Every sentence is littered with typical Manx words like ‘alright fella’ or ‘how’s it going yessir’. People from the UK can’t quite place us and think we have a Scouse, Manc, or some random northern accent.
And as lovely as the island is, we also have sayings after being on the island for too long (about six months). You may overhear Manx people saying, ‘I want to get off this rock’, or ‘this is like being on Alcatraz’. But, of course, Covid restrictions mean getting off the rock has been on hold. Usually we escape on the three-hour ferry to Liverpool for a long weekend away.
The icon of the island much of the world knows it for is the Manx flag, featuring three bent legs which to the untrained eye looks like a swastika. It’s actually an ancient symbol from the Mycenaeans and Lycians, popular in Scandinavian cultures. We officially adopted the flag in 1932, about a thousand years after it was brought here by descendants of the Norse King Analf Cuaran.
Who needs the London Eye?
Now you know us a bit, let me tell you about a few of the island’s attractions. And remember, you are never more than two hours from getting anywhere here.
One attraction is the great Laxey Wheel. Unlike the upstart wheel of the London Eye, this is a waterwheel that has been running for over 70 years. It’s the largest of its kind and was used for mining in the early 1900s. Tourists first climb to the top to take in panoramic views of the Glen Mooar valley and then explore trails to the mine ruins to discover the history and lives of the Laxey miners.
Another is Peel Castle attached to the local town by a causeway. You can walk around, taking in the amazing views of the sea and the small town of Peel. The castle even has its own mythological creature. Soldiers guarding the castle in olden days reported an enormous black dog with rough curly hair called the Moddey Dhoo. Each night as fires were lit, the Moddey Dhoo would appear from dark passages and lay down by a hearth, never making a sound, and disappearing at the break of day. The terrified soldiers eventually became accustomed to their supernatural visitor.
Tourist Trials – or the TT Races – are not just for tourists
I’ve saved the best for last. Our best-known attraction is the Isle of Man TT Races, the annual motorcycle races that attract thousands of tourists in May and June. The races first began in 1907 and are one of the world’s oldest motoring competitions.
The big deal about these races is that they are among the most dangerous racing events in the world with regular fatalities. This is because the TT takes place not on racing tracks, but on the main roads of the island. Superbike riders hit speeds of over 100 miles per hour along 38 miles of narrow twisting roads.
Racers have a split second to navigate and one small mistake can end in catastrophe. What makes the races so exciting for spectators is being so close to the course, watching riders zoom past an arm’s length away doing ridiculous speeds. No other sporting event offers spectators the same in-your-face adrenaline rush.
But the races are not just for tourists. The locals are also buzzing during race time and we often take two weeks off to join in.
Let me take you to the TT races of 2018, my favourite year so far. There had been no rain for three weeks straight and it was scorching hot. I mean, I’m talking 25-30 degrees every day. And that year it was not just the weather breaking records. So too did the TT racers with new lap records all over the course. It was just unreal.
Early each day, me and friends headed to the Grand Stand where the bikes start the race. We sampled the food markets there and watched the bike rev-up for a full day session.
With the end of the day’s racing, we would go to the famous Bushy’s beer tent and watch as it got busier and busier. As the thousands in the beer tent drink and get drunk, a huge stage with the island’s best musicians kicks in. By 11 everyone rams together in the standing area in front of the stage. Thirty degrees weather, out with the lads in shorts and a t-shirt, holding a beer, during the biggest festival of the year? Bloody brilliant! In 2018, that memorable year, I recall three weeks straight drinking every night. At least I think I did.
It’s at times like this when us ‘Manxies’ have to take a step back and take it all in. To see our quiet island come to life like a festival, enjoying the night with friends and neighbours is unforgettable.
If you ever get a chance to visit the Isle of Man, obviously after this pandemic is over, you have to come over during the TT races. This is must and I guarantee you will have a blast!